Water Quality
Using a test kit is a good starting point. The Tetra Pond Test 6-in-1 is straight forward to use if you are new to the process of water testing. It comes with twenty five test strips and you simply dip one strip at a time into your pond water and then wait for the colours to appear on the strip. Once the colours have developed fully, you compare the strip to the chart to diagnose your water. Other test kits are available to buy, like the Blagdon Pond Health Test Kit, but we would advise testing for Chlorine, pH, Carbonate, hardness, Nitrite and Nitrate. Further to this, some local garcen centres offer a water testing service, though this is not guaranteed.
New ponds or ponds with problems should be tested 2-3 times a week, whereas established ponds with little history of problems should be tested monthly. Tests will allow you to monitor any chemical changes and treat the pond accordingly, before problems arise.
Below, you will find a table complete with a list of chemicals and the suitable ranges of each chemical along with any suitable treatments that can balance these chemicals in your pond.
You may also find the below blogs useful:
• Pond Problems
• Top Tips
If you have any queries, please email us on info@pondkeeper.co.uk.
| Chemical | Ideal Range | Treatment | Description |
|
Chlorine Chloramine |
0 |
Tap water contains Chlorine and Chloramine which can be fatal for fish. The Chlorine/Chloramine will naturally resolve itself if you leave your pond for 6-8 weeks or if you use rainwater. More information can be viewed on the How to Remove Chlorine from your Pond blog post. |
|
|
Ammonia Nitrite Nitrate |
Ammonia: 0-0.25 Nitrite: 0-0.25 Nitrate: 0-5 |
Ammonia is created from decomposing organic matter and sludge at the bottom of your pond. Ammonia is converted into Nitrite and then into Nitrate. This is the Nitrogen Cycle. Your bacteria should control these chemicals, but treatments may be required. AVOID over-feeding fish, adding fish to a pond with poor water quality, water changes and sludge at the bottom of your pond. |
|
| Carbonate (kH) |
100-200ppm |
Add Baking soda (1 cup of baking soda per 1,000 gallons) Calcium Carbonate |
The Carbonate Hardness levels (or Alkalinity or German Hardness) need to be high in your pond water; this helps the nitrogen cycle to convert the Ammonia and Nitrite to Nitrate. Without the Calcium Carbonate there would be no biological filtration which would be bad for your fish. Carbondate problems are uncommon. But adding rocks around the sides of your pond or waterfall can help. Please see our How to manage Pond kH levels for more information. |
| pH |
pH: 7 |
pH has a 0-14 scale indicating the acid and alkaline levels in the water. 0-6 indicates too much acid, 8-14 indicates too much alkaline. 7 is considered neutral. The Digital PH Tester can identify your ponds pH level. Your fish will be stressed with a pH between 4-6.5 or 9-11. Your fish may not grow, reproduce or they may die with a pH between 5-6.5. Your fish will almost certainly die with a pH less than 4 or greater than 11. Please see our How to Treat and Prevent a pH Problem blog post for further information. |
|
| Oxygen |
Oxygen levels between 7-9mg/L. |
See our two blog posts: |
The oxygen levels in your pond water are imperative for the health of your fish. In addition to your fish, things like warm temperatures, fish waste, algae blooms and decaying organic matter all decrease the oxygen levels. Even the good bacteria in your pond consume a lot of oxygen. Fish gasping at the surface or near waterfalls/fountains indicates low oxygen levels. If left, fish may die so in addition to your pump and filtration system, adding an air pump is vital. We have a wide variety of aeration blog posts available with a diverse range of information. |